Yes, I'm a dork.
Saturday dawned, I think (who the heck gets up at dawn on their vacation?!) as a bright, glorious autumn day. Karen and I were ready to get out in all its splendor at....oh.....about 10, but were unsure of how to dress for the day. It was, of course, October, so that usually means sweatshirts or at the very least long sleeves, but this day was promising to be a warm, Indian Summer day. So layers it was.
I was navigating, which meant a lot of backing up and turning around. But soon enough, we were on Old Mission Peninsula, described this way: "A delicate finger of breathtaking beauty, Old Mission Peninsula (OMP) extends northward from Traverse City into Lake Michigan's Grand Traverse Bay. Nineteen miles long and 3 miles across at its widest, the land was historically devoted to growing cherries, one of Traverse City’s claims to fame. This unique micro climate situated precisely at the 45th parallel (exactly halfway between the North Pole and the Equator) also happens to be the ideal environment for growing varietal wine grapes. A lakeside location holds the summer heat in check, while preventing temperatures from dropping too low in the winter. The result is a short but virtually frost-free 145-day growing season perfectly suited for the production of excellent handcrafted Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, as well as specialty fruit wines, cherry port and sangria, and methode champenoise sparkling wines." We couldn't wait to check out some of those vineyards!
Evidently many other people had the same idea, because the first vineyard was jam-packed and the second, Two Lads, sadly, had sold out of wine We meandered out to the point, thinking we could hit a few vineyards on the way back. Oh yes, and we stopped to take photos!
This is the Old Mission Inn, and judging by the decor, a place we want to stay next time we're in Michigan!And this is a view from somewhere on the peninsula--we said over and over again how lucky we were to be in Michigan at this time of year.
I think both of us were eager to get out to Old Mission Point, because we were a little tired of being in the car and were looking forward to walking out in all this splendid nature. I was looking forward to seeing the lighthouse, and was also hoping to see a sign for the 45th parallel (the halfway point between the equator and the North Pole)--for no other reason than to get a photo of Karen in front of it (she's a map geek).
The lighthouse was different from what I expected, but was still very cool.
Here is the bonus--we both were able to pose in front of the sign! The problem with traveling as a couple is: one of you has to take the photo, so you get none of the two of you. But I have found that if you just ask, strangers are very willing to help you out. How cool is that?
At last, we were able to hike out in nature. And what spectacular nature it was! We decided, because we needed the exercise, to walk out as far as we could on the point.
The view from there was glorious, and we were happily surprised to spot a family of white swans off the point.
Karen, of course, climbed way out on the rocks and scared me again, but we made it safely back to civilization and headed for the vineyards that were, by now, calling our names quite clearly. We stopped for lunch at Bad Dog Deli and immediately felt sorry for the overworked woman behind the counter (turns out she was the owner); I guess they weren't expecting the amount of business they were getting for a weekend in October--usually by this time, the weather had turned colder and less inviting. However, while we were there, we were entertained by the bicyclists and their funny outfits.
We realized that every vineyard was going to be busy, so chose three that were easy to get to from the main road: Bowers Harbor, Black Star Farms, and Peninsula Cellars.
These grapes were growing on the vine at Bowers Harbor.
The last vineyard, Peninsular Cellars, was our favorite, because the tasting room is in an old school, and the wine, Detention, is very good. Plus they gave out Hersey's kisses (who says I can't be bought?). I was struck by how patient and polite all the servers were at all the vineyards; they have to repeat themselves over and over, and yet treated us as if we were their only customers for the day. Tasting was fun, and although I usually prefer red to white wine, I found the opposite was true for these vineyards. I was also looking for a good cherry wine, and finally found one at Peninsula Cellars.
We left Old Mission Peninsula, but we promised to return and to bring some friends. After a stop at the hotel, we ventured off to see a couple of places in Traverse City that we just couldn't miss.
This is a store in Traverse City that sells t-shirts and "A Hermit Crab with the Purchase of a Cage". Sadly, no Hermit Crabs this late in the year, or Kiki and Charlie would have had a new playmate. Isn't the bear incredible? We thought it might have been vandalized by paintballers, but the clerk said the bear was attacked by paint balloon-welding teenagers. Anyway, this was a photo for Suzie.
Next stop was Twisted Fish Galleries. Unfortunately, they were closed, but we got some great shots of the artwork outside:
Of course, Karen and the chicken for Liz, Karen's friend who loves chickens a little too much.
This is an amazing sculpture of a bear, made from old metal parts. He is holding a fishing rod.
But by far my favorite was "Hunting Dog". Note that there appears to be a very large stag, just behind this canine, and I think he's going to get away. There were just too many sculptures to capture on film, and I highly recommend you stop by next time you're in the neighborhood. Bring lots of cash.
We were beginning to think that dinner would be a good idea, but not before a stop at a waterfront park in Traverse City.
Karen was really, really sad that the city was so strict about where you could and could not walk in their city. Those bastards! Keeping poor Karen off their rocks!
On the other hand, I was relieved to not have to call an ambulance to scape her off of said rocks.
Next decision was where to have dinner. We were craving burgers, and of course, wanted to try some more beer (the alcohol from the wine had worn off hours ago--really!). We wanted to patronize a locally-owned business that was not very touristy. After a mistaken drive up the coast to the land of no restaurants, we started back toward Traverse City. Karen, in a brilliant move, turned right then left and there we were--right in front of Little Bo's.
Lil Bo's has been family owned and operated for a very long time. I highly recommend the Olive Burger (hamburger, sliced green olives, mayo, Swiss cheese), but I must say their menu has a lot of variety and it will be tempting to try it all.
Nancy, the owner (took over from her father) made us feel very welcome, and the great salesperson she is, made us try the cannoli's for desert. Wow! And, in a pure serendipitous moment, she and I realized we were both in the San Francisco Bay area during the earthquake of 1989. We will definitely be turning into the parking lot of Lil Bo's next time we're in Traverse City.
The next question was: how do we cap a terrific day on Traverse Bay? By going to the casino, of course! There was one near Traverse City, so off we set with $40 in our pockets (OK, we actually had to turn around and go back for the money--we each thought the other one had it!) to play the slot machines. I am happy to report that we returned to the motel with $40 in our pockets, because luckily Karen won $30 on the Quarter Slots, while I proceeded to lose all of my money. The casino parking lot was jammed; it looked like Christmastime at the local mall. I admit I do like all the glitz and lights and waterfalls--it doesn't make me spend more money, but it does dazzle me. It took only 15 minutes to break even on the slots (thank goodness Karen was there to pull me away, because dammit, I hate to lose and I would still be there, trying to win--just one more quarter......). We spent the rest of the evening wandering around the casino, watching them play roullette and blackjack, and being amazed at the high stakes tables that were full. The casino was a depressing place for me in the end, because I looked around and saw people I know who couldn't afford to be there, gambling on that one chance they would actually win. It was a lot like our government credit crunch without the expensive suits. But it was fun to do something different with Karen, and know she has more self-control than I do (a good quality to have in a partner!).
The next morning dawned (you know the rest), and we were told the temperatures were to be in the 80's, so figuring out how to dress was not a problem. We left Traverse Bay behind (promise to return!), and headed out toward Sleeping Bear Dunes.
I highly recommend you pay the money, enter the park, and do the driving tour--there are plenty of scenic stops (like this one), and plenty of places to hike.
How many times can I say it? The scenery was just spectacular!
This is a shot for Sarah--local fauna on the dunes. We did the 1 + mile loop and it was grand.
This is the spot where Karen said she would leave me if I didn't stop taking so many photos of leaves! Honestly, we were pretending to be the first white settlers, and this is where she decided to leave me after I complained once too often about leaving Boston for this. It was fun.
Finally we arrived at Sleeping Bear Dune.
Here Karen faced twin disappointments. She was not going to be allowed throw rocks, AND there was no way I was going to go to the bottom of this dune! As an aside, when we returned home, we were telling Peter where we had been, and he said that he and his friends had also been there this summer. Of course, idiots they were, they went all the way to the bottom. Glad I didn't know it until months later.
As we were wandering around the lookout area, we spotted this little bit of artwork in the sand. Really, who makes little bricks out of sand and water?!!! Extraordinary!
If you look really closely, or click on the image for an enlargement, you will see the people climbing up from the bottom of the dune. You will probably not see where they have thrown up. I am really, really so glad I didn't know Peter had gone to the bottom of this dune!
Here we are, safely at the top of Sleeping Bear.
As we began our drive to Saugatuck, we made the great decision to stay on the less-traveled roads. The scenery was, again, spectacular, and we found ourselves, more than once, stopping to try to capture it on film. These photos just don't do it justice.
We were starving, but sadly did not eat here.
This place, in Grand Haven, boasted it was the largest pumpkin patch in the area. It WAS pretty impressive, and had the best carmel apples I've ever eaten.
They also had some weirdly cute wall art.
Our ultimate destination for our last day of vacation was our favorite Michigan town, Saugatuck, and our favorite Bed and Breakfast,
The Newnham Suncatcher Inn, run by Nancy and Barb and their boss, Abbey the terrier. We were fortunate to get the guesthouse for our stay, and this is the view from our front door. The Inn is currently for sale, so I recommend you book a stay soon--you will not want to miss the hospitality of Barb and Nancy.We love Saugatuck because it's quaint, has lots of cool shops, most importantly, welcomes with open arms the LGBT community. Karen and I could really be ourselves there and not worry about snide remarks or worse.
I also spotted the prettiest Obama sign I have seen. It was nestled in this peaceful front garden, next to a little waterfall.
This one is for Sarah. There are still black squirrels in Michigan!!!!
Our time in Saugatuck passed way too quickly, and before we knew it, we were heading home. The beautiful scenery helped cheer me a little, as did a burger from here.
Redamak's is an institution in New Buffalo, Michigan, and for good reason. They are closed for the season now, but I recommend a visit if you're close to Michigan City and feeling a bit peckish. Great burgers, great atmosphere.
We got back on the Interstate for just a few miles, and wow--it was worth it just to see this car! The back window is covered with little antennae and wires. What the heck are all these for?! Perhaps some geek can explain?
As I've said, it's great to get off the major roads and just meander home. About an hour from home, we came across this sign.
This bar was just across the street; maybe you could kill time here while your deer was being processed? You've just gotta love bars like this one; I'm sure there are lots of stories to be told from time spent here. I'm just not sure I want to go inside to hear them.
We also stopped near the Jasper-Pulaski Nature Preserve and saw some sandhill cranes out in the cornfields. It was a little too early in the day to enjoy the cranes as they fly into the Preserve for the night, but it was cool to see them out in the fields.
And finally, some more damn leaf photos!
Karen is one of the best traveling companions to have (ranks right up there with Mom, Kila, Erika and Peter, to name a few). I can't wait until our next adventure.
